As requested, here is a tutorial on how to hem jeans that have a specialty thread. Or if you just want to keep the extra length as an option later.
I use this method when hemming jeans for children. Then as they grow, I can let the hem out and take up a smaller amount.
There are a lot of pictures for this tutorial... I hope you enjoy!
Hemming Jeans: The Tuck Method
Turn up the cuff to the desired length and measure from the fold to the hem. In this case, 2 inches.
Measure from the hem to the thread line. In this case, a little less than 1/2 an inch.
Add the two measurements together, place the ruler on the thread line and mark at the length.
Tailors chalk is perfect for this as it will come out with steam with you're done!
Take the chalk and, using a straight edge, mark all the way across the leg.
With both legs on top of each other, use a marking wheel to mark the line on the other sides of the denim.
Note: Because denim is so thick, you will have to push fairly hard and go over the line several times to ensure that you can see it once you move the legs away from each other.
This is what the bottom leg will look like after the marking wheel. It looks like it's a bold enough line, but trust me, it magically disappears once you get it over to the machine, so go ahead and mark all sides again with the chalk.
Here it is with the chalk over it, much better!
Fold edge of hem down to the chalk line.
Sew on the right side of the thread. It's orange in this case, but sometimes it will be navy. In that case, use the chalk to make the line more visible.
Flip the extra fabric inside the leg and make sure that you can see the original hem. This make require a tug on the hem, depending on how thick the fabric is.
If you are going to be leaving the extra length, skip this step!
If you know this is the perfect length, cut the extra fabric, leaving about a half inch of fabric all the way around the hem.
If you have a serger, sew the edge to keep the edge from fraying. If you do not have a serger, use a zig-zag stitch to do the same thing.
Note: Be sure to only sew the extra fabric. You don't want to catch the hem thread!
If you left the extra fabric, this is where you pick up!
Flip the serged edge inside the leg and sew on top of the fold, on the left side of the thread.
Once both legs are done, use a steam iron to remove the chalk lines.
Here's the top of the finished hem.
And here's the inside!
Happy crafting!
